Is Your Pelton Crane Sentry Heat Light Not coming on? Is the sterilizer not heating up? It could be something as simple as your door switch.
How The Door Switch Works
Your door locking mechanism on the Pelton Crane Sentry consists of a "Handle" on the door and a "Catch Block" on the face of the unit. Closing the door and sliding the handle locks the door in place tightly, sealing the chamber, so you can start your sterilizing procedure.
The Handle contains a cam (or door bolt) with a groove in it. This grove engages with a "shoulder" in the catch which locks the door. If you look inside your catch, you will see a small, flat strip of metal protruding inside it. This is the lever (or actuator) for your door switch. When your door is closed and the handle slid all of the way to the right, the lever is moved and actuates the switch.
Troubleshooting The Switch
When the switch is defective, the HEAT ON light will not come on and the chamber will not get hot.
Here is a simple test you can perform to see if it is the problem. No Tools Needed - Just a couple of minutes of your time
- Close the door, but do not lock it
- Turn the Bottom Knob To The "STERILIZE" mode
- After it has been on for a short period of time, reach inside the chamber and touch the wall on your left side.
- If the wall is getting warm, that means the top (or side) heating element is working
- While not necessary, if you were to touch the bottom of the chamber, you would find it is still cold - which indicates the main (or center) heating element is not receiving power
- Turn the Bottom Knob back to the off position
If you get these results, the door switch is your problem. And, instead of a $125.00 + service call (plus parts), the replacement switch will only cost you about $17.00 -and installing it is easy. Here are your easy, step-by-step directions:
Removing The Defective Door Switch
Note: This procedure should only be performed after you have your replacement switch in hand.
Tools Needed: A Flat Blade (Standard) Screwdriver
Precautions: Make Sure Autoclave is Turned Off & Unplugged
- Remove the 3 screws on each side of the cabinet, by turning them in a counter-clockwise direction with your screwdriver
- Lift off the cabinet and set it aside.
- Find the door switch by looking on the inside of the front panel where the door catch is located (it is a little red box located right next to the chamber mounting bracket)
- Make a note of the color of wires & their locations on the switch (If factory wiring is in place, the gray wire goes on the tab next to the chamber, the yellow wire goes to the other rear tab - next to the gray one) and the double (2) white wire connector to the tab on the side.
- Remove the wires by pulling the connectors away from the switch by hand
- Remove the 2 screws holding the switch in place with your screwdriver, by turning in a counter-clockwise direction.
- Remove The Switch
Installing The New Door Switch
- Insert the Stem from the new switch (the actuating lever) into the door catch from inside the unit.
- Secure to the mounting bracket with the 2 screws you removed.
- Replace the wiring with the connectors by pushing them onto the tabs of the door switch (gray to the tab next to the chamber-yellow on the next tab - and the double (2) white wire connector to the side of the new door switch
- Replace the cabinet and fasten to the base with the 3 screws you removed from each side.
- Plug it in and set the bottom knob to Sterilize. The light should come on and the chamber should begin to warm up.
- Turn It Off. Your unit is now ready to go back into operation
For Even More Tips and Replacement Parts visit us at AllClaveParts.com.
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